These Artisan Cheeses From the Northeast U.S. Are Too Good To Miss

🧀 I love cheese.

Photo by Thanos Pal on Unsplash

I worked as a cheesemonger in a former life. Okay, that might sound like I'm referring to some strange past-life experience, but it's just one of many odd jobs I picked up before I got into writing.

For much of my life, I didn't even know it was a job you could have. One of my oldest friends used to say she wanted to own a cheese shop when she grew up, which we found hilarious as kids in the '90s. Back then, a cheese shop sounded preposterous—what was there beyond plastic-wrapped bricks of orange cheddar?

Little did we all know we were right on the precipice of a major surge in interest in artisan food (to the point that phrase would become an eye-roll-inducing cliché), and that would indeed include cheeses.

So, after getting laid off from my first post-college job in New Orleans (yes it was 2008), I took it as a sign that I should do something food-related. That's because I loved cooking, shopping at farmers markets, and reading The Omnivore's Dilemma by Michael Pollan (this is all very of the moment for the 2000s, I know).

When I moved to New York City, I found an AmeriCorps role at a community center, helping out with the community garden, farmers market, and whatever else needed doing. After that year was up, I landed a job at the legendary Murray's Cheese in the West Village, where I fully bought into the lore (which turned out to be, let's say, a tad embellished). Still, it was a great shop with genuinely excellent products. The work was tough, but I really liked it, although my time there was short because I soon moved to Austin.

My husband and I still talk fondly about the free sandwiches and fancy loaves of bread, like a certain semolina-coated loaf dotted with golden raisins and fennel seeds, that I often got to take home at the end of the day. Now we can just buy whatever kind of sandwich we want. But back then, a free sandwich filled with prosciutto and fresh mozzarella felt like a true luxury.

Murray's also had its fair share of celebrity customers like Marisa Tomei, Helena Christensen, and even Dave Gahan from Depeche Mode. Joanna Goddard also used to come in with her baby when Cup of Jo was starting out (see, I told you this was a very aughts-era story).

Beyond the perks and the occasional star spotting, that job gave me a deep well of cheese knowledge that I still tap into today. Several Vermont farmers were starting to produce some incredible cheeses back then, and I'd listen to my coworkers tell stories of road-tripping up there to visit the farms.

Taking such trips sounded impossibly out of reach. After all, my diet at the time consisted almost entirely of free sandwiches, bread, and whatever extra produce I could take home from the farmers' market I worked at once a week. I definitely wasn't about to rent a car.

These days, I much prefer being on the other side of the cheese counter. So it's good that I now find myself living in upstate New York, with my own car, and within day-tripping distance of many of those cheesemakers. I've now visited some of these places in person or, at the very least, have easy access to their products at the local co-op. Here are some of my favorites:

Massachusetts Cheesemakers

Cricket Creek Farm (Williamstown, MA)

This working farm in the Berkshires makes the soft-ripened Tobasi and the Alpine-style Maggie's Round. I love stopping at their cozy little farm store on my way back to Albany after a day in Williamstown. It's stocked with milk, eggs, meat, and pantry staples from around the region.

High Lawn Farm (Lee, MA)

Let's be real: I mostly visit this lovely farm in the Berkshires for the ice cream and to see the baby cows. Their tiny shop also stocks a small selection of farmstead cheeses. The fragrant Siegfried's Pride, rubbed with an herb-infused brandy, is especially good.

New York Cheesemakers

Four Fat Fowl (Stephentown, NY)

I often drive right by this cheesemaker, which looks like it's housed inside a former school, whenever I'm coming back from North Adams. However, I'm a little ashamed to admit I only just recently tried their St. Stephen (a velvety triple cream available at my co-op). I've been missing out!

Lively Run Goat Farm & Dairy (Interlaken, NY)

This Finger Lakes farm makes one of the few goat's milk blues in the country (Cayuga Blue). It's smooth, fudgy, and has just the right amount of funk. We stopped here on a family trip to the region years ago and have great memories of taking my daughter to see the baby goats.

Nettle Meadow Farm (Warrensburg, NY)

This cheesemaker is best known for its bloomy-rind cheeses, especially the buttery triple-cream Kunik (made with goat and cow's milk, which blew my mind back in my cheesemonger days). I haven't visited the farm yet, but I've been to their quirky Lake Luzerne restaurant and shop, where I've found some seriously good deals on their cheeses.

Vermont

Photo of Highlander // courtesy of Jasper Hill

Jasper Hill Farm (Greensboro, VT)

Founded in 2003 by brothers Andy and Mateo Kehler, Jasper Hill was just getting started when I was working at Murray's. Now, it's one of the most influential cheesemakers in the country. They make everything from the spoonable Harbison to their famous clothbound cheddar and Bayley Hazen Blue. Their underground aging facility, The Cellars at Jasper Hill, also helps smaller cheesemakers with affinage (aging and ripening cheese) and distribution.

Mt. Mansfield Creamery (Morrisville, VT)

This husband-and-wife team makes raw milk cheeses aged in caves under their barn. While resupplying in Stowe during my Long Trail hike, I picked up their Halfpipe (modeled after the French Alpine styles). Since these hard cheeses are literally made for taking into the mountains, it was perfect for the trail. And, yes, while anything you eat tastes better after a long hike, this cheese, which is earthy with a touch of sweetness, is still incredibly delicious at home, too.

Spring Brook Farm Cheese (Reading, VT)

This is another standout cheesemaker I remember from my New York City days. It’s an educational farm that also makes some of the best Alpine-style cheese in the country. Their Tarentaise has a deep, walnut-like complexity that rivals any wheel from Europe.

Twig Farm (West Cornwall, VT)

If you're into small-batch goat cheese with funky natural rinds, don't skip anything from Twig Farm. Fun fact: I recommended their Goat Tomme to Martha Stewart (well, for her assistant), who came into the shop to do her cheese bidding.

Vermont Shepherd (Putney, VT)

This is one of the oldest sheep dairies in the U.S. and is still one of my favorites. Their aged sheep's milk cheeses, especially the Verano, are modeled after the crowd pleasing cheeses of the Pyrenees. Think nutty, rich, and deeply satisfying. The farm's not far from where I live now, and visiting their little shop, which runs on the honor system, makes it worth the trip.

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