Why the Hudson Valley Town of Kinderhook, NY Keeps Sneaking Into My Weekend Plans
Where I go when I need a change of scenery
Living in Albany, NY, is highly convenient. I have my pick of many different kinds of grocery stores. My doctor is three minutes away. I’m at the airport in 15. And I can get to the gym in less than 10 minutes. We have a playground right across the street. Everything I need is close by, which makes everyday life pretty easy.
But I'm just going to say it: Albany isn't much to look at. Aside from one block of historic row houses near Washington Park, the city can be brutal on the eyes. It's frustrating because if you drive 20 minutes in almost any direction, the scenery improves dramatically. That's part of why I make a point to get out of town regularly.
Sometimes, a short afternoon escape is enough, and one of my favorite destinations for such a getaway is Kinderhook. Just a 30-minute drive southeast of Albany, this compact village feels like a different part of New York State entirely. It still feels under-the-radar, probably because it's tucked into the far northern edge of Columbia County, even farther north than buzzy Hudson.
The Knitting Mill, a handsome red-brick former factory from the late 1800s that now houses shops and restaurants, is the center of the town's mini-renaissance. The village green is postcard-perfect, and the Empire State Trail runs right through town, making it a natural stopping point for cyclists traveling from New York City to Buffalo or Quebec.
I've read that Kinderhook was pretty sleepy until recently. Founded in the 1600s, it's one of the oldest towns in New York. Its most famous resident was Martin Van Buren, the eighth U.S. president, best known today for popularizing the term "OK," which is an abbreviation for "Old Kinderhook." A bronze statue of him sits beneath the village bandstand in the center of town.
Kinderhook’s main roads are lined with historic 18th- and 19th-century homes, and there's a casual, low-key vibe to the whole place along with a surprisingly strong food scene. Everything has that slightly precious Hudson Valley feel (which, I'll admit, I like), but the quality of the experiences back it up.
So if you're looking for a low-effort day trip or a quiet weekend getaway without the crowds, Kinderhook is worth a look.
Where to eat in Kinderhook
This is precisely the kind of coffee shop Albany needs. I came for the Thai lemongrass sausage breakfast sandwich, which didn't disappoint. My daughter talked me into getting the apple cake (which sounded boring), but it was unexpectedly great. The mochi donuts and coffee were also solid.
Also inside the Knitting Mill, this Southeast Asian restaurant from Brooklyn chef Hannah Wong is high on my list of places to try. I haven't had the chance to eat here yet, but if the breakfast at Morningbird is any indication, it seems worth a trip.
This tiny spot, which started as a pandemic-era farmers' market operation, now serves up tasty Levantine dishes from a bright storefront. Pick up hand pies, hummus, and tabbouleh to go. Or sit down with a beef kofta pita.
Here’s a nostalgic roadside burger-and-shake joint that serves excellent homemade ice cream. It's popular for lunch and makes a great stop if you’re exploring the Empire State Trail by bike.
Where to get a drink in Kinderhook
I recently spent an afternoon here eating a gooey grilled cheese and sipping a draft beer while catching up on work. The space is cozy like the many bars I passed time in while living in Belgium but has that twee Hudson Valley vibe. There’s also an impressive selection of Belgian beers available by the bottle.
Set inside a beautifully restored colonial home, this new wine bar is still on my to-visit list.
Where to shop in Kinderhook
My daughter loved the artist-designed stickers sold at this equal parts general store and toy shop that also stocks penny candy, design-forward toys, books, and other playful knick-knacks.
This beloved local farm stand is worth the detour for U-pick produce in season, fresh vegetables and fruit, local meats and dairy, and a rotating selection of baked goods. There’s homemade ice cream, and the soft serve is some of the best in the region.
Check out this independent bookstore with a sharp selection of fiction, cookbooks, and kids' titles. It's compact but well-curated, precisely what you want in a small-town bookshop.
Held on Saturdays on the village green, this farmers market runs from spring through fall and features local produce, flowers, baked goods, and handmade crafts.
What to do in Kinderhook
Jack Shainman Gallery: The School
Housed in a former high school, this gallery presents ambitious, large-scale contemporary art exhibitions. I once saw a Warhol exhibit here—for free—shortly after I moved to the area.
Martin Van Buren National Historic Site
About a mile south of town, Van Buren's post-presidency estate is now a National Park Service site. You can tour the house, walk the grounds, and learn more about the only president from New York born before the American Revolution. We’ve spent a fair amount of time on the hiking trails here.
In summer, this is an excellent place for a family outing. At this working livestock and produce farm, visitors can stroll the fields, observe the animals, and pick up grass-fed meats, eggs, and other goods at the farm store.
Where to stay in Kinderhook
Right across from the green, this six-room inn recently opened after a complete renovation by a local fifth-generation family. Built in 1820, it boasts exposed beams and antique furniture paired with air conditioning and plush beds.