Why Vermont's Mad River Valley Has a Special Place in My Heart
The ultimate guide to an excellent getaway in Waitsfield and Warren, VT. Plus, what I've been up to, what I've published, and how to work with me.
I first fell in love with Vermont's Mad River Valley while hiking the Long Trail a few years back. That trip took me through the heart of the Green Mountains and popular towns like Stowe and Manchester, which I also hold dear. Yet, it's the quaint villages of Waitsfield and Warren in the Mad River Valley that keep drawing me back. There's just something about the region's gorgeous scenery, distinctive food scene, and good vibes that make it so quintessentially Vermont.
Now, don't expect non-stop action in this quiet region located smack in the middle of one of the country's most rural states. The beauty of the Mad River Valley lies in its slower pace. There's no rush to check things off a list or dress up (don't we already deal with that enough in our daily lives?)—just a chance to enjoy the great outdoors and then treat yourself to some of Vermont's best comfort food.
With attractions like ski resorts, hiking trails, swimming holes, and plenty of lush foliage that turns fiery colors every October, the Mad River Valley attracts visitors throughout the year. Having visited the region in all seasons, including Vermont's "stick season” (November and December, after the leaves fall down), I'm excited to share my top recommendations for where to stay, play, eat, and drink in the Mad River Valley.
Disclosure: I’ve written two sponsored posts for Vermont Tourism with Matador. I took on these projects enthusiastically because I know Vermont well and genuinely believe it’s a fantastic travel destination.
Where to eat and drink in the Mad River Valley
Waitsfield and Warren have nailed the art of comfort food—think craft beer, wood-fired pizza, stacked sandwiches, local cheese, and ice cream—all served at relaxed, welcoming spots. Just a heads-up: the high cost of living makes staffing a challenge here, so service can move at an, um, "leisurely" pace. Most places also close by 8 or 9 p.m., so keep that in mind.
Mehuron’s Supermarket
Don’t let the unassuming look of this grocery store (pronounced me-hyur-ons according to this story from Vermont Public) fool you—inside, it’s a treasure trove of local food products and unique finds. We always stock up on pickles, local eggs, dairy products, homemade sausages, and more. Also, try the sandwiches (the "Bob & Julie" is my favorite). PRO TIP: Order sandwiches at the deli counter first because they take a while. Then do your shopping.
The Blue Stone
In all honesty, I’m probably irrationally emotionally attached to this place. After a long day of hiking, eating their wood-fired pizza and drinking local beer on the patio is the perfect way to refuel. The indoor dining room is also very family-friendly and supremely cozy during the colder months.
Canteen Creemee Co.
If you're unfamiliar with this Vermont specialty, creemees are like soft-serve ice cream but have more milk fat. I'm usually loyal to the default creemee flavor, maple, but the ube-coconut swirl here is exceptional. They also have a full food menu that people like, though I've yet to try it. I stick to the creemees.
Madbush Falls Restaurant & Bar
This restaurant feels like the place Waitsfield has been missing. It’s relaxed, down-to-earth, and with creative food perfect for a nice dinner with your partner or the whole family. My family and I dined here as guests, and despite the lively après-ski atmosphere, it was surprisingly kid-friendly. The food also truly surpassed my expectations.
Mad River Taste Place
This upscale food shop has a great local beer selection and a top-notch cheese counter. It features Vermont standards like Jasper Hill and rarer finds like Mt. Mansfield Creamery, one of my favorites.
Pizza Soul
Another pizza place? Yes, but the vibe is totally different here than at The Blue Stone. It's a tiny takeout joint, often run solo by the owner, serving up full New York-style pies. This spot has come to my rescue twice—the first time after a long hike, the second after a full day skiing when it was the only spot in town open on Super Bowl Sunday. Each time that freshly baked pizza was exactly what I needed.
Lawson’s Finest Liquids
I’m ashamed to say I haven’t made it to Lawson’s taproom yet (traveling with a little one doesn’t always leave time for brewery stops). But I’m a fan of their beer, especially the Mad River Maple, a robust ale brewed with 100% Vermont maple syrup. Every trip, I make sure to bring back a 6-pack.
Where to stay in Waitsfield and Warren, VT
The Mad River Valley in Vermont primarily offers welcoming bed & breakfasts, rustic inns, vacation rentals, and ski condos. Although the lodging options are somewhat limited—no chain hotels in sight—you’ll find most of them are very atmospheric and typical of the region.
Madbush Falls
This reinvented 1950s ski chalet, now a modern and independent lodge, opened last fall and serves as a base for mountain biking, hiking, and skiing. It covers all the essentials with a bar, restaurant, gear rentals, and a full-service bike shop. Best of all, it also features a custom-built sauna overlooking a 30-foot waterfall. Rooms have a fresh Scandinavian-inspired design with local touches like handcrafted mugs and wooden furniture. There’s also a four-bedroom apartment and seasonal glamping tents. My family and I stayed as their guests earlier this year and genuinely feel it’s a much-needed, reasonably-priced addition to the area.
The Swanson Inn
Picture a quintessential Vermont bed & breakfast, and you've got the Swanson Inn: comfy rooms, antique furnishings, and Adirondack chairs out back. Once, during breakfast, I even looked through the dining room window and spotted a bear running around out back (a guest had made the mistake of leaving a trash bag out for too long)! I stayed here a few times while hiking the Long Trail because the previous owners were hikers, too, and offered rides to and from trailheads. While the inn changed hands recently, it likely remains as hospitable as ever.
Various Airbnbs
Are we even allowed to recommend Airbnb anymore? While I generally lean toward hotels over Airbnbs to avoid fees and checkout chores, family-friendly Airbnbs here may offer more space than the typical B&B. However, Vermont's housing shortage has sparked debate over short-term rentals, so some might feel conflicted about staying in one.
Other spots worth considering
I've heard good things about The Pitcher Inn for a splurge. Its location in the quaint village of Warren can't be beat. And I have to admit, I'm intrigued by the photos of the inn’s tavern. It looks super cozy!
Fellow hikers also regularly recommend Warren Lodge for high-quality yet reasonably priced accommodations. The lodge offers a mix of rooms and apartments that can accommodate two to eight people.
There are also several popular spots near the Swanson Inn along Rt. 17 between Waitsfield and Appalachian Gap: Mad River Barn, Mad River Lodge, The Griff Inn, and Hyde Away. However, I’ve never stayed at any of these.
Top Things to Do in the Mad River Valley
Most visitors come to the Mad River Valley to enjoy the outdoors, so what you do there depends largely on the season. Winter is prime time for skiing and snowboarding. In summer and fall, hiking, backpacking, and mountain biking take center stage. There are also plenty of swimming holes to cool off in during the hotter months. Here are all the details:
Ski the slopes
If you're in the area, you're bound to see the bumper sticker for Mad River Glen with its famous slogan: "Ski It If You Can" (you might also spot its rival bumper sticker that proclaims "No One Cares You Ski Mad River," ha). This ski area is known for its steep, natural trails and cooperative ownership, catering mainly to advanced skiers. It's one of the last resorts that still bans snowboarding, and the iconic single chairlift adds to its old-school charm. I haven't tried skiing here yet—I'm still too scared as a beginner, but I hope to tackle some greens someday. Locals rave about the pub for its authentic Vermont vibe, so it's on my list for a beer, even if I don't get around to skiing. On the other hand, I had a blast skiing at Sugarbush (which also allows snowboarding) in Warren. It’s a larger, more modern resort with two main mountains: Lincoln Peak and Mt. Ellen.
Hit the trail
There's no shortage of fantastic hikes in the Mad River Valley, many along the Long Trail and some offering stunning 360-degree views of the area.
But you'll have to work for those! In my opinion, the area’s most challenging hike is Burnt Rock—a fellow hiker once told me he even broke down in frustration while climbing this rugged peak. But the expansive views, including a glimpse of New Hampshire's Mt. Washington on a clear day, make it worth it. If Burnt Rock sounds daunting, consider turning back at Molly Stark’s Balcony after admiring the nice view of Camel’s Hump, another favorite peak in Vermont.
For those looking to bag one of New England’s 4,000-footers, Mt. Abraham is an excellent choice. It's easier than Burnt Rock and also offers panoramic views. Just be aware that the access point, the road through Lincoln Gap, closes for winter around September or October. You can still reach the trailhead by parking outside the barriers and walking up the steep road, but it adds a lot of distance to the hike. The same goes for Sunset Ledge, a much more moderate hike that leads to a nice view. Its trailhead is on the opposite side of the road.
Both Burnt Rock and Mt. Abe can also be tackled as backpacking trips. About halfway through these hikes, you'll encounter backcountry campgrounds with shelters, a water source (just remember to filter it), and privies.
Relax in the sauna (cold plunge optional)
Savu Saunas, owned by two Vermonters who spent time in Finland, recently opened Scandinavian-style saunas across the state, including one at Madbush Falls. The sauna boasts a stunning view of the property's waterfall, and you can even take a cold dip in the Mad River before warming up. When I visited in winter, it was still under construction, but the setting is hard to beat.
Take a swim
I'm ashamed to admit I've never been swimming in the Mad River Valley. Vermonters can be secretive about their favorite swimming holes, but Warren Falls has blown up on Instagram, so there's no hiding it now. A little research could uncover a few more hidden gems, I'm sure.
Go biking
I'm not well-versed in mountain biking (I don't need another hobby that requires special gear). But I know those who do it are quite passionate about it! So, if I were to try it, which I’m not opposed to, I’d head to the Riders Outpost at Madbush Falls to rent gear and get advice on routes. The website already offers a ton of information on MTB routes, gravel routes, and even guided rides.
Stroll down Main Street
Not up for hiking or biking? Then you could always go for a walk if the weather is nice. While a car is necessary for getting around this rural region, you'll find two charming walkable Main Streets—one in Waitsfield (the "bigger" of the two) and another in Warren. Waitsfield's Main Street is home to Clearwater Sports, where the owner saved me during a gear emergency on the Long Trail, along with several art galleries. Warren’s tiny downtown area has the Warren General Store (there's nothing I love more than a classic Vermont general store). Both places also claim an example of the state's characteristic covered bridges, though I wouldn't recommend walking across them!
Admire the view
Not looking to do much more than have a drink and sit by the fire? At least venture outside once to drive up to the overlook at Appalachian Gap (or App Gap, as locals call it), a major mountain pass in the Green Mountains. The overlook is lovely on a sunny day. But after a rainstorm, the clouds and fog drifting over the verdant peaks cast a beautifully moody glow.
What I’ve been up to
I spent the first week of September on a press trip in Northern Ireland. I also recently returned from an excellent mother-daughter weekend in Saranac Lake in the Adirondacks. More to come on that! Other than that, I’ve just been enjoying fall in Upstate New York.
What I’ve written recently
AAA Northeast, Where to Go Whitewater Rafting in the Northeast
Wine Enthusiast, What’s the Difference Between Wine Grapes and Table Grapes?
Matador Network, A Sustainable Travel Guide to Vermont’s Legendary Green Scene
Wine Enthusiast, The Best Wineries (and More) to Visit in Maryland Right Now
Matador Network, 4 Vermont Road Trips Perfect for Your EV
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Here for maple creemees anytime, anywhere! 🍁