How North Adams, MA in the Berkshires Became an Art Destination
What's going on in North Adams and Williamstown as MASS MoCA celebrates its 25th anniversary. Plus, what I'm up to, what I've written, and how to work with me.
Last week, I woke up in my North Adams, MA hotel room and reached for my phone on the nightstand. Imagine my surprise when I saw a new article from American Weekender about another hotel in North Adams. Then, this week, I noticed it also got a mention in the Washington Post, which only reinforced what I was already feeling as I began preparing this guide a few weeks ago: North Adams, along with nearby Williamstown, is having a moment, maybe in part because the area's most significant cultural attraction, the Massachusetts Museum of Contemporary Art (MASS MoCA), is celebrating its 25th anniversary this year.
Growing up where I did nearish to Boston, the northwestern corner of Massachusetts seemed like the end of the Earth. So, before my first visit years ago, I knew little about these towns besides the fact that it’s the location of Williams College.
But after moving to Albany, NY years ago, I visited to take advantage of the hiking (the region is also home to Mt. Greylock, the state's highest peak). The first thing I noticed about Williamstown, besides the leafy streets and classic New England-style white-steepled church, is that the town is small—like really small. Williamstown’s main thoroughfare, Spring Street, is only about three blocks long.
A short drive east along Route 2 brought me to North Adams, a faded factory town anchored by the massive MASS MoCA, one of the largest contemporary art museums in the U.S. Together with influences from the Clark Art Institute and the Williams College Museum of Art, this corner of Massachusetts has grown into a destination for both traditional and contemporary art, now with new hotels and restaurants to support it.
Art and Culture in North Adams, MA
As I mentioned, MASS MoCA is marking its 25th anniversary this year. Located in the former Sprague Electric Co. complex, the museum opened with a dual purpose: to bring world-class contemporary art to the Berkshires and to contribute to the economic revival of North Adams—a town that, like many manufacturing communities, has faced economic challenges.
With an admission price of $25 (comparable to many major city museums now, I guess), MASS MoCA sets fairly high expectations for visitors. I visited during its annual free day last winter and found that a 2017 description from The New York Times was still pretty apt:
"Its mission is to appeal to everyone, both the entry-level art lover and the sophisticated one. Nearly every visitor can usually find something to like, perhaps to love, and probably something to dislike, too."
The museum's sprawling galleries feature long-term installations and expansive galleries for large-scale exhibitions by prominent artists like James Turrell. You'll also find compelling temporary and rotating exhibitions that have included artists like Sol LeWitt, Trenton Doyle Hancock, and Lily Cox-Richard.
The Influence of Williams College and the Clark Institute
Regardless of anyone's personal opinions on the museum's collection, it's impressive that an area (North Adams plus Williamstown) with about 20,000 residents has such a high concentration of art. While MASS MoCA is a big draw, the region's artistic roots run deeper, thanks to the existence of the Williams College Museum of Art and Clark Institute.
These neighboring museums—one focused on giving students hands-on art access since 1926, the other established in 1955 and renowned for American and European art—have created a network of alums who have been incredibly influential in the art world.
MASS MoCA also traces its roots back to this artistic ecosystem; the idea for its founding emerged from conversations between North Adams' then-mayor and Thomas Krens, the former director of the Williams College Museum of Art who later went on to direct the Solomon R. Guggenheim Foundation.
Both museums are also open to the public and worth visiting. Even better, the Williams College Museum of Art is free, so there's no excuse not to pop in for a bit, even if you're just wandering around Spring Street.
New and Noteworthy in North Adams and Williamstown
There's been some debate over whether MASS MoCA has truly revitalized North Adams, but I've noticed plenty of changes since my first visit more than five years ago. Plus, it has a distinct mix of accessible nature, a touch of grittiness, and a downtown with a few cute shops like Savvy Hive, Bear & Bee bookshop, and Plant Connector.
Here are more businesses to visit, peppered with others that have opened recently and are worth watching.
Where to Stay in the Berkshires
Although I usually visit North Adams as a day trip, several newer hotels make a longer stay tempting. Here are some options to consider:
Hotel Downstreet
This is the one North Adams hotel I can recommend from firsthand experience. Opened last year in a completely overhauled former Holiday Inn, this boutique hotel's art-inspired decor complements the location within walking distance of MASS MoCA. It includes galleries with rotating exhibits and an in-house art collection displayed on the walls of hallways and guestrooms. Though some Holiday Inn traces remain, the rooms are huge and good value in a region that can be a little pricey.
Other spots to consider
Tourists, a nicely renovated former motor lodge, is the buzziest of North Adams’. I've wanted to stay here since it opened in 2018 and have been monitoring rates. But I can't quite bring myself to book a room there because it's never quite hit my budget. Still, I've noticed it's regularly full and gets excellent reviews, so it might be worth a splurge.
I've also heard good things about the Williams Inn at the end of Spring Street. Owned by Williams College, it reopened in 2019 in a new building steps from shops and restaurants and decked out in rustic New England farmhouse vibes—think lots of stone and wood accents.
Porches Inn, found right across the street from MASS MoCA in seven Victorian-era buildings initially built for mill workers, combines industrial and contemporary touches in its rooms and common spaces.
Where to Eat and Drink in Williamstown and North Adams
As I assembled this list, I learned that I live off sandwiches, cheese, and ice cream whenever I go to the Berkshires. So, I apologize in advance if you're not a fan of those things. With that in mind, here are some of my favorite eateries and a few new places:
Casita Berkshires
I'd usually be hesitant to recommend a Mexican restaurant in the Berkshires. However, I must admit the tacos (made with homemade tortillas) and margaritas hit the stop when I recently lunched here on a Friday afternoon surrounded by a multi-generational crowd of stylishly dressed diners. I’d like to return for dinner to try some of their more creative Mexican-inspired dishes that have already garnered local accolades.
Cricket Creek Farm
This sustainable, grass-based dairy farm specializes in artisan farmstead cheeses, such as the Tallegio-like Tobasi, a semi-soft cheese with a washed rind. The farm runs a self-serve store stocked with their cheeses and other local products. Just exercise caution when navigating the long dirt road to the farm—the spring thaw or heavy rains can create difficult muddy conditions.
Lickety Split
After a summer hike up Mt. Greylock, few things hit the spot better than a cone from this ice cream stand in Williamstown. They serve Herrell's ice cream, a famous brand based in Northampton, made in small batches and renowned for its high quality and inventive flavors. The Williamstown stand is seasonal but reliably better than the year-round MASS MoCA location—though I can't quite figure out why. Maybe it’s all in mind, or perhaps it’s due to a difference in product turnover. Who knows?
Provisions
This pleasant Williamstown shop, which opened in 2022, offers a large selection of regional cheeses beyond Cricket Creek Farm. You'll also find wine, beer, fresh bread, and pantry items (pickles, olive oil, etc.) from artisan and local producers.
Spring Street Market and Café
I lived off this cafe’s goat cheese and apple sandwiches during a summer visit to Williamstown when I was 8 months pregnant. Unfortunately, that particular option is no longer on the menu, but there are several other sandwiches to choose from, along with tons of grab-and-go options and baked goods.
State Food + Drink
I recently stopped at this restaurant, which opened in September inside the beautifully restored Greylock Works—a former cotton mill with artist studios, a cidery, and a distillery—for breakfast. I felt like I was back in Austin, where I used to live, due to the counter service, industrial millennial-core decor, and a solid breakfast burrito. They also serve lunch and dinner.
Store at Five Corners
This classic country store offers sandwiches, baked goods, and coffee—a fun stop for a quick bite or cup of coffee. There are also toys and games available to entertain the kids.
What I’ve been up to
Very little besides visiting the Berkshires. Here in Albany, we’ve just been enjoying the gorgeous fall weather and firing up the wood stove. It’s been great!
What I’ve written recently
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Going up to Mass MoCA later this month on my birthday - we just moved to the Berkshires in August and I haven't been there yet. Went to The Clark last week an absolutely loved it - world class! Great to have your recommendations here :)